{"id":203,"date":"2025-06-05T19:00:26","date_gmt":"2025-06-05T16:00:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/itmediz3.beget.tech\/en\/?p=203"},"modified":"2025-06-10T16:25:31","modified_gmt":"2025-06-10T13:25:31","slug":"the-union-of-courgette-and-endive","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/watchrussia.com\/en\/land\/the-union-of-courgette-and-endive\/","title":{"rendered":"The Union of Courgette and Endive"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

You came to Russia in the early 1990s, amid the surge of interest in the country. Before that, you worked in other countries, Scotland, a cruise ship? Why couldn\u2019t you stay in one place in France?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some people can\u2019t imagine life beyond their homeland or comfort zone, while others are nomads who can\u2019t sit still. I belong to the second group.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And how long have you been living in Russia?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

For 33 years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But aren\u2019t you then a settler rather than a nomad?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

True. In Russia, I became sedentary. I feel comfortable here. Russians think differently; they are proactive. When I described the dynamic changes here in the early 2000s to my friends in France, they couldn\u2019t believe me. They couldn\u2019t imagine existing comfortably amid such chaos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Still, there are things in Russia that I dislike. For example, Russians struggle with lengthy apprenticeships. In my line of work, cuisine, a young chef joins a restaurant and believes he\u2019s ready to lead after just six months. But that\u2019s unrealistic. Six months isn\u2019t enough to master the basics; it takes years of hard work. The kitchen is like an army: you start as a soldier, strictly following orders and learning diligently. That\u2019s how it was for me at Tour d\u2019Argent, the iconic Parisian restaurant where I acquired foundational skills and experience, which I still apply today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After three decades of working in Russia, have you succeeded in training new chefs?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Indirectly, yes. When French chefs like myself arrived in Russia in the early 1990s, we introduced different culinary standards and cultures. I led a team of 33 cooks, maintaining respectful professional relationships in the kitchen. I confess, in the early years, I raised my voice but, with maturity, I became more professional and calm, especially at Le Carr\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Salad with endive, pear, blue cheese, dried tomatoes, and walnuts from the seasonal menu of Le Carr\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Being a chef is exhausting. Renowned chef Eric Fr\u00e9chon, who announced his retirement from his three-Michelin-starred restaurant in 2024, revealed that it was the first time in 25 years he spent Christmas at home rather than working. Don\u2019t you ever grow tired of the kitchen?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Absolutely not. Eric Fr\u00e9chon worked in a luxurious palace-hotel in Paris, facing a heavier workload than owning an independent restaurant like my Le Carr\u00e9. Honestly, today I mostly direct the process, training the team, managing operations. As they say, I oversee service delivery, and I derive great satisfaction from it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What defines your restaurant Le Carr\u00e9?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le Carr\u00e9 is orientated toward traditional, bourgeois, and classical cuisine, with organizational similarities to Tour d\u2019Argent. Fresh ingredients are delivered daily. We prepare French dishes but over 90% of our ingredients are sourced locally in Russia. For instance, my foie gras comes from Belarus, undoubtedly the best quality product I\u2019ve found in over 30 years of working in Russia. Scallops from Sakhalin, meanwhile, I find inelegant and oversized, so I rarely use them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Have you discovered any unique Russian flavours?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, I fell in love with butter courgette in Russia. They are rare in France, where zuccini predominate. Zucchini often taste bitter or sour, whereas courgettes are juicier and milder. I have a warm salad with goat\u2019s cheese and butter courgette on my menu, it\u2019s so Russian.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Your menu also includes a salad with endive. In France, endive is a staple, like courgettes for Russians, but in Russia, it\u2019s relatively unknown. How do your guests react to it?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Very positively. My regular patrons trust me and are open to trying new things at my restaurant. The taste of endive is genuinely unfamiliar in Russia. However, I know how to persuade Russians: telling that a product is healthy convinces them, as wellness is a key factor for them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Muksun fish from Yakutia with forgotten vegetables, lemon verbena sauce and black caviar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Do you have any dishes that could be considered your personal \u201cProustian madeleines\u201d, dishes that remind you of specific moments in your life or tell stories about you?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, the apple tart is my diploma project. I first offered it to customers back in my bistro on Lubyanka Square, and it immediately became popular. Another signature dish is Shokomer, a chocolate dessert inspired by Tour d\u2019Argent. I also prepare \u00eele flottante (floating island) following my grandmother\u2019s recipe. Among special offers, there\u2019s slow-cooked venison tongue in Gran Vener sauce with lentils, prepared just as my father did.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Which dishes on your menu are inspired by Russia?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Muksun fish from Yakutia. It is steamed and served with so-called forgotten vegetables, such as parsnips, which vanished from Russian cuisine but are now making a comeback. On top of the muksun, I pile a mound of black caviar, making it a quintessential Russian dish. Recently, I discovered black cod from the Kuril Islands. I couldn\u2019t find the perfect way to prepare it; I didn\u2019t want to steam it like muksun. Neither olive nor vegetable oil worked. Then a friend suggested using clarified butter. Fish quickly saut\u00e9ed in butter becomes surprisingly tender, with a slight flavoor of hazelnut imparted by the butter. Black cod is more flavourful than cod but it\u2019s difficult to cook, you need to master the basic techniques I mentioned, so, in restaurants, you can only find it steamed at best.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Over three decades in Russia, what aspect of the Russian character have you absorbed?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Living in Russia taught me not to fear sudden changes, to be resilient, and to embrace the idea that, if you lose everything today, you\u2019ll regain it tomorrow, just keep going. This lesson stems from my experience in Russia in the 1990s. Incidentally, the same thing happened with my current restaurant Le Carr\u00e9. I opened it five years ago, thinking it was a period of bad luck, followed immediately by the onset of COVID-19 and quarantine. Now, we are clearly progressing compared to previous years, and guests who visit us once tend to return.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Eric Le Provos, a native of Normandy, is arguably the leading French figure on the Russian culinary scene. He has lived and worked in Russia since 1991, and, five years ago, he opened his restaurant Le Carr\u00e9. We asked Eric about how his cuisine follows the traditions of the restaurant Tour d\u2019Argent, and Russian and French tastes.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":220,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15,14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-203","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-heroes","category-land"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Union of Courgette and Endive - Watch Russia - EN<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ru_RU\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Union of Courgette and Endive - Watch Russia - EN\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Eric Le Provos, a native of Normandy, is arguably the leading French figure on the Russian culinary scene. 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