About Watch Russia
Designer Tatiana Kruchenykh, founder of the Amano Dress brand, makes dresses that replicate the Suprematist outfits from his paintings. We talked to her about being inspired by art.
In 1999, John Galliano created a collection called Russian Constructivist for the house of Christian Dior using, among other things, a cut based on Malevich’s Suprematist principles. In 2003, Karl Lagerfeld, also inspired by Malevich, designed a collection for Chanel focusing on geometric combinations of pure colours in embroidery and appliqués. For you, which is more important: the cut or Malevich’s colour system? What specific features of both are present in your Malevich-inspired dresses?
For me, it was primarily important and interesting to convey, as accurately as possible, the cut and form of the original reference points – the works of Kazimir Malevich, namely Female Figure (1928) and Woman with Rake (1931). I wanted to incorporate geometry into the design so that the dress would be comfortable and wearable in everyday life. My idea wasn’t just to be inspired and create something loosely based on these references but rather to use an artwork as a ready-made sketch. The first dress I made was for myself and it ultimately received great feedback from my clients. It’s very valuable that many wonderful women have embraced this concept without asking themselves “Where one could possibly wear such a thing?” Haute couture designers working for major fashion houses typically create clothes for runways. It’s essential for me, however, that clothing can be used daily, making art truly accessible in everyday life. As a result, we end up with timeless pieces, ones that aren’t trend-driven, that can genuinely be worn for extended periods.
Malevich is known to have developed a new decorative style, including in clothing design. Would you like to live in his Suprematist world? Is it visually comfortable?
Currently, Russian style is gaining popularity in all its manifestations. It’s no longer kitsch but serves as the foundation for very intriguing modern interpretations. Overall, I appreciate a return to our past, to our history. Appearing at the beginning of the twentieth century, Suprematism caused a lot of noise, yet it has now become part of our mundane reality, a kind of mid-Russia domestic art with subtle references. That means bold Suprematist ideas have been refined and transformed into something that can be admired and utilized every day. It’s fantastic that, nowadays, we really can wear anything. Society no longer dictates how we should look. We’re free to choose our own style.
Who else, besides artists, has been a source of inspiration for creation of Amano Dress gowns?
Right now, I’m completely absorbed by Nicholas Roerich. His colourful patches and dramatic contrasts are perfect for patchwork. I’ve been making kimonos based on his paintings, the result being a double layering of Asian influences: a kimono cut combined with Himalayas as depicted in Roerich’s paintings, while still retaining a sense of Russianness – mine, as the author.
