The Tretyakov Gallery is marking the 160th anniversary of Léon Bakst by showcasing the artist who transformed theatrical costume into a work of art—creating stage looks that became an integral part of the fashion landscape
The Engineering Wing of the Tretyakov Gallery has opened an exhibition dedicated to Léon Bakst (1866–1924), one of the most striking artists of the early 20th century. His name is most closely associated with Sergei Diaghilev’s «Ballets Russes,» yet the exhibition invites visitors to explore the artist’s work in a broader context: from painting and book illustrations to theatre set designs, interior design, and fabric patterns. The exhibition will run until 18 April 2027.
At the heart of the exhibition lies an artistic world where classical themes, Eastern motifs, and daring colour combinations intertwine. Bakst crafted a cohesive visual environment for theatrical performances. His sketches for the ballets Scheherazade, Cleopatra, and Narcissus are displayed alongside costume designs, including those created for the dancer Ida Rubinstein. The works reveal how the artist experimented with silhouette, ornamentation, and colour, transforming the stage into a realm of vivid spectacle.
A dedicated section of the exhibition explores the journey of Bakst and Valentin Serov to Greece in 1907. Ancient art became a source of new imagery and stylistic solutions for the artist. This period is presented in the exhibition as a dialogue between the two masters: alongside Bakst’s works, visitors can view pieces by Serov connected to their shared trip. Photographs, letters, and other archival materials also play a significant role, offering insights into the artist’s creative explorations and his relationships with contemporaries.
Bakst worked far beyond the theatre. He designed books and magazines, created interior projects, and collaborated with figures from the world of fashion. Following his success in Europe, the artist turned his attention to the American market: at the request of entrepreneur Arthur Selig, he developed patterns for silk fabrics. These designs combined a wide array of motifs, ranging from Russian ornamentation to Eastern imagery. In this way, Bakst’s theatrical aesthetic gradually transcended the stage and became part of everyday visual culture.
The artist’s story is closely intertwined with that of the Tretyakov Gallery itself. In 1903, Bakst married Lyubov Gritsenko, the daughter of Pavel Tretyakov. The exhibition features her portrait and a costume sketch created by the artist. Personal photographs and documents from the family archive enrich the narrative about the master, who is often remembered primarily as the creator of iconic theatrical designs. Archival materials provide a glimpse behind the artist’s name, revealing a man with his own story, circle of loved ones, and years of creative exploration.
Bakst was one of the first to demonstrate how closely theatre, painting, fashion and decorative arts could be intertwined. The costumes he created for the «Russian Seasons» inspired European fashion designers, while his patterns and colour schemes continued to thrive beyond theatrical productions. The exhibition offers an opportunity to trace how the artist shaped the visual identity of his era and why his works are still perceived as a world unto themselves. The exhibition is open at the Engineering Wing, located at 12 Lavrushinsky Lane.
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