The land in the Astrakhan Region’s Kamyzhaksky District is crisscrossed by waterways forming the riverbed systems of the Volga Delta. Fish have been caught here since time immemorial. Ancient earthenware vessels with remains of fish, fishing hooks and nets, and lead sinkers were found in large quantities during excavations at the Samosdelka settlement, which is the most important archaeological site in the area. Today it is presumed to be the legendary Itil, capital of ancient Khazaria. A kilometre from the settlement site lies a village named after it, Samosdelka, founded in 1769. It was famous for its fish factory built much later than Itil, in the 19th century. In the 20th century, already as part of the USSR, the Astrakhan Region produced 70% of the Soviet Union’s total fish catch, some of which was turned into canned fish products, including ones made at the Samosdelka factory. The plant closed down in the 1990s, as did many factories. Moreover, today there are not so many fish in the Volga Delta either, not enough for mass catching or continuous production of canned food.

Nevertheless, ten years ago, the core enterprise in Samosdelka was revived but in another format, while retaining its name: on the foundations of an old factory, Moscow businessman Stanislav Kruglikov built the Rybzavod boutique hotel. This is now the only five-star hotel in the Volga Delta. According to the spirit of place, fishing is still cultivated here but following different rules: as a form of ecotourism, a way of communicating with nature without exploiting it and with maximum respect for it.

Factory Сhic

In 1858, Alexander Dumas travelled from Paris to Astrakhan, describing his journey in detail in travel notes. He also noted there one Russian specific that has remained virtually forever. “Russians love caviar and gypsies”, Dumas accused us. To this day, in every Russian restaurant from New York to Harbin, you will be served caviar and hear the Dark Eyes song. We ourselves often think stereotypically about ourselves: Russian provincial luxury is usually like a fairy-tale, as festive as gypsy celebrations. Yet Rybzavod is a pleasant exception.

The industrial history of the place accounted for its design concept. Loft style and minimalism dominate the hotel: brick walls, wooden beams, a huge island fireplace made of blued steel and copper, graffiti inspired by Banksy, decorative items in a contemporary art style, modern furniture. The hotel has just 11 rooms, each uniquely designed and dedicated to a city or region: there’s Bruges, Murakami, Tyrol, Huanghe, Marrakech, etc. This geographical approach places Samosdelka ironically in the context of international tourism.

In the common areas of the hotel, decorative panels made of hemp ropes adorn the walls, while the restaurant menu features dishes made from hemp: cottage cheese pancakes, desserts, pancakes, chips rich in fibre. The reason is that hemp farming, which is being revived worldwide today, happens to be the hotel owner, Stanislav Kruglikov’s, main business. He runs it in Adygeya and Mordovia, but has always loved coming to Astrakhan on vacation to fish. Fortunately for the Astrakhan Region, our hero proved himself not only a passionate angler but also a hedonist. So, he decided to build not yet another tourist base on the shores of the Old Volga, but a boutique hotel instead. After all, in Africa there are luxurious safari lodges for those who do not want to compromise on luxury even when traveling to see wild animals. Similarly, the hotel in Samosdelka allows guests maintain their standards while fishing in remote parts of Russia. You can catch big fish before or after relaxing in the spa.

Fish and Stars

The spa zone at Rybzavod is impressive: featuring a massage room, a diverse cosmetic treatment menu, hammam and sauna. There is an outdoor pool and jacuzzi heated during cold seasons because the current in the Old Volga is strong and not everyone feels comfortable swimming there. For leisurely aperitifs before dinner, a campfire lounge area and romantic grotto have been set up in the garden. After dining, guests may enjoy digestifs in the cigar room or library with the Old Volga panoramic views. The restaurant and reception area merge into a vast living room complete with a lounge area boasting couches and an open fireplace, bar and karaoke. In addition, singing here is not limited to the popular songs typically associated with karaoke; arias from operas and operettas are performed, too. The hotel frequently invites artists from the Bolshoi, Mikhailovsky and Astrakhan Opera & Ballet Theatres to entertain guests with musical evenings. Additionally, domestic opera stars such as Ildar Abdrazakov and Vasily Ladyuk have visited here on holiday and sung along a bit of karaoke.

Yet at Rybzavod, one can simply listen to the silence, gazing enchanted at the starry sky above. There is a telescope in the garden for guests to observe celestial bodies, together with an astronomer guide. Sky in the Astrakhan Region is traditionally cloudless, and light pollution is minimal owing to the proximity of the Caspian Sea. With a good telescope, visitors can, indeed, see a lot: Saturn’s rings, double stars, distant nebulae and, of course, constellations with Polaris.

Another key spot at Rybzavod is the fishing gear room. The hotel arranges the entire process for guests, providing them with specialized clothing and the requisite tools free of charge so they don’t get wet or freeze. Other activities offered include visits to the Samosdelka Settlement Site, where archaeologists tell instructive stories about the infamous Khazars we learned about in school; excursions to Astrakhan Biosphere Reserve located just a 20-minute drive away; and rides through the Volga Delta jungles aboard aeroboat Orlan. Built exclusively at a St. Petersburg shipyard, Orlan was specifically designed for the lotus fields of Astrakhan and can navigate areas where ordinary boats would get stuck. Its elevated rear deck provides excellent viewing, turning the boat into a true 3D cinema of nature. Fish, stars, lotuses and amazing birds inhabiting the Volga Delta make up what could arguably be called genuine high-end Astrakhan luxury.