Signs Above the Mantelpiece

Dashi Namdakov has transformed the Buryat plateau of Taphar into a route inspired by the Eastern zodiac.

Editorial translation

In Buryatia, on the Tapkhar plateau, a 4.5 km art trail has been inaugurated, where amidst the steppe expanses and ancient stones, 12 sculptures by Dashi Namdakov and a nine-meter bronze Guardian have been installed.

The route begins with the «Warriors» composition, assembled from Karelian pine, mahogany, copper, horsehair, and fabric. Further along the path, the animals of the Eastern zodiac line up: from the Rat and Ox to the Dragon, Horse, and Tiger. Bronze figures and stainless steel sculptures are not separated from the landscape by museum pedestals: they become part of the open space, where the wind, terrain, and distant mountain lines continue the artist’s work.

The centrepiece of the route, a nine-metre-tall Guardian, bears on its back a poetic chronicle of life, hand-carved into its surface. Scholars from Russia, China, and Mongolia were involved in its creation. The wise sayings on the figure are inscribed in Old Mongolian script. As the Genghis Khan Plateau project itself explains, each of the 12 sculptures is conceived as an independent artwork, capable of being displayed in a museum setting.

This place has a personal story too. Dashi Namdakov first visited the plateau about 15 years ago and, according to him, was struck by the majestic stones, ascents, and vistas. The sacred significance of the area made the artist ponder whether intervention was appropriate here. Namdakov mentioned that his team was ready to abandon the project if the local elders had objected. Ultimately, the sculptures were created with special attention to the natural landscape and the cultural traditions of Buryatia.

A walk along the trail is conceived not just as an introduction to art. The route follows the direction of the sun and refers to *goroo*, a traditional Buddhist circumambulation performed for purification and reflection. Along the way, there are hand-laid stone staircases, rest areas with larch benches, and viewpoints offering panoramic views of the Ivolginsky Valley and the Ivolginsky Datsan.

The «Tapkhar» trail opened on 11 October as part of the «Trails of the Far East» project. It spans 4.5 km and takes approximately one and a half to two hours to complete. Here, modern sculpture not only decorates the route but also offers a view of the Buryat landscape through mythology, history, and the symbols of the Eastern calendar.

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